www.capitolium.org

The official Web site of the Roman forums, with pictorial reconstructions of how the ruins would have looked in their day, as well as how they look now; material on life in ancient Rome; and even a live Web view of the forum.

www.catacombe.roma.it

Official site of Rome’s Christian catacombs, with visuals, historical descriptions, and explanations of ancient symbols - a good supplement to our own accounts if you’re extra keen.

www.comune.roma.it

Italian-language Web site of the Rome city authorities.

www.enjoyrome.com

Helpful site of the helpful Rome tourist organization, with information on accommodation and tours - and links to other popular Rome Web sites.

www.gamberorosse.it/e/romausa

Nice site in English, detailing walks around Rome that take in Gambero Rosso’s speciality - restaurants and bars.

www.initaly.com/regions/latium

A quirky site that gives links, and subjective rundowns, on everything Italian - and in this case Roman.

www.roma2000.it

Everything about Rome in the Millennium, with comprehensive, if irregularly updated, information on all aspects of the city.

www.romeguide.it

The place to go whether you’re after a bus or walking tour of the city centre, a guide to a particular monument or gallery, even the chance to go on a “ghost tour” of Rome.

www.vatican.va

Slick, multilingual Web site of the Holy See, with material - some still under construction - on the Vatican Museums, the institutions of the city state, its newspaper online, and a calendar of the whole of the Holy Year’s events.

www.venere.it/home/lazio/roma

Probably the best site for accessing the Web pages of those hotels that have them - and booking rooms online

Spanish Steps , Largo Goldoni (tel 06.6813.6061)

San Giovani , Piazza San Giovani in Laterno (tel 06.7720.3535)

Via Nazionale , Palazzo delle Esposizioni (tel 06.4782.4525)

Piazza Navona , Piazza delle Cinque Lune (tel 06.6880.9240)

Castel Sant’Angelo , Piazza Pia (tel 06.6880.9707)

Forum , Piazza del Tempio della Pace (tel 06.6992.4307)

Trastevere , Piazza Sonnino (tel 06.5833.3457)

Santa Maria Maggiore , Via del’Olmata (tel 06.4788.0294)

There are tourist information booths on arrival at Fiumicino (daily 8.15am-7.15pm; tel 06.6595.6074), and at Termini (daily 8.15am-7.15pm; tel 06.487.1270 or tel 06.482.5078), although the long queues that often develop at both of these mean you’re usually better off heading straight for the main tourist office at Via Parigi 5 (Mon-Fri 8.15am-7.15pm, Sat 8.15am-1.45pm; tel 06.4889.9253 or tel 06.4889.9255), ten minutes’ walk from Termini. They have free maps that should - together with our own - be ample for finding your way around, although the rest of their information can be uneven and out of date. There are also information kiosks in key locations around the city centre (daily 9am-6pm). They too often have outdated general information but the staff usually speak English, and they are useful for free maps, directions and new information (opening times, for example) about nearby sights.

You might be better off bypassing the official tourist offices altogether and going to Enjoy Rome , Via Varese 39 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-2pm & 3.30-6pm, Sat 8.30am-2pm; tel 06.445.1843), whose friendly, English-speaking staff run a free room-finding service; they also organize tours, and have a left-luggage service for those who take them. Their information is often more up to date and reliable than that handed out by the various tourist offices, and they will also advise on where to eat, drink, and party, if you so wish.

For what’s-on information, the city’s best source of listings is perhaps Romac’è (L2000, Thursdays), which has a helpful section in English giving information on tours, clubs, restaurants, services and weekly events. The ex-pat bi-weekly, Wanted in Rome (L1500, every other Wednesday), which is entirely in English, is also a useful source of information, especially if you’re looking for an apartment or work. If you understand a bit of Italian, there’s Time Out Roma (L2000, Thursdays), a weekly review full of listings as well as articles on the trendiest everything in Rome, and the daily arts pages of the Rome newspaper , Il Messaggero, which can be found in most bars for the customers to read, and lists movies, plays and major musical events. The newspaper La Repubblica also includes the ” Trova Roma ” section in its Thursday edition, another handy guide to current offerings.

Scalinata di Spagna Hotel

Piazza Trinità dei Monti 17 tel 06.679.3006, fax 06.6994.0598. Metro A Spagna.

Gays and lesbians are welcome at this centrally located hotel, just up from the Spanish Steps. Doubles for L450,000-500,000, singles L350,000-380,000. Everything you would expect at this price, plus a terrace for breakfast.

Seiler Hotel

Via Firenze 48 tel 06.485.550 or 06.488.0204, fax 06.488.0688. Metro A Repubblica.

Another gay-friendly accommodation option, a little cheaper than the Scalinata di Spagna, just down from Piazza della Repubblica, across Via Nazionale from the Teatro del’Opera. Singles here go for L180,000, doubles for L250,000, triples for L300,000. Breakfast included.

Michela Leone Rooms

Lesbian-friendly accommodation, both in Rome and at the seaside, for L40,000 per person. Contact Michela on tel 06.718.5288, or write to Via Lucciano 30, 00178 Rome. Strictly women only

Europa Multiclub

Via Aureliana 40 tel 06.482.3650. Metro Termini. Sun 1pm-midnight, Mon-Thurs 3pm-midnight, Fri & Sat 1pm-6am.

Near Termini, this has pleasant, clean facilities, and a snack bar. L20,000 per visit, plus L20,000 for ARCI-Gay annual membership (good for discounts at gay venues throughout Italy).

Mediterraneo

Via Pasquale Villari 3 tel 06.7720.5934. Metro A Vittorio. Daily 2pm-midnight.

Also in the Termini area, near Piazza Vittorio, this is a sauna on three levels, with all the usual choices, including a snack bar. L20,000 per visit, plus ARCI-Gay yearly membership of L20,000

Baronato Quattro Bellezze

Via di Panico 23 tel 06.687.2865. Bus #64. Daily 8pm-2am. Moderate.

Definitely one-of-a-kind, this place is owned and run by the inimitable Dominot, life-long drag chanteuse, formerly of Paris, who performs Piaf here on Thursday evenings. There’s nothing else like it, at least not in Rome. Dominot is Tunisian by birth and the fare here is accordingly couscous, made by himself, including one for vegetarians. The decor is a charming hodge-podge of memorabilia from his glittering career, including a gaily-lit carousel pony that floats above the bar.

La Focaccia

Via della Pace 11 tel 06.6880.3312. Bus #64 or #492. Daily noon-3.30pm & 7pm-1am. Moderate.

Just off Piazza Navona, this place serves hearty, unusual dishes, a dozen different kinds of focaccia, pizzas and salads. Good desserts, too, and excellent red house wine.

Le Sorellastre

Via San Francesco di Sales 1b tel 06.718.5288. Bus #H or #75. Tues-Sat 7pm-2am.

This Trastevere bar and restaurant, serving Italian and international cuisine, is the only exclusively lesbian place in town.

Shops and services
Energie

Via del Corso 486, tel 06.687.1258. Metro A Spagna. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-1.30pm & 3.30-8pm.

Clothing store with trendy young styles and friendly young assistants, plus a 15 percent discount if you flash your ARCI-Gay membership card (available for L20,000 through ARCI-Gay or at our sauna listings).

Libreria Babele

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 116, tel 06.687.6628. Bus #64. Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm.

Rome’s gay and lesbian bookshop, with lots of gay-themed books, some in English, plus gadgets, posters, videos, guides and postcards. Towards the river from Campo de’ Fiori, just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Zipper

Via Castelfidardo 18 tel 06.488.2730; fax: 06.488.2729; email: zipper.travel@flashnet.it. Web site: www.adv.it/zipper. Metro A Repubblica. Mon-Sat 9am-8pm.

Gay travel agent, located near Termini, brokering round-the-world or round-Italy travel for gay and lesbian groups and individuals

Alcatraz

Via Aureliana 38 tel 06.4201.3286. Metro Termini. Thurs-Sat 10pm-3am, Sun 5pm-2am.

Very near Termini Station, this video bar on three floors features music, big screens, “video hard”, a discotheque and a dark room. It has special theme evenings, too, such as “Army Night” on Thursdays, and there’s a Sunday Tea Dance starting at 5pm.

L’Alibi

Via Monte Testaccio 44 tel 06.574.3448. Bus #75. Wed-Sun 11pm-4.30am.

Predominantly - but by no means exclusively - male venue that’s one of Rome’s oldest and best gay clubs. Downstairs there’s a multi-room cellar disco and upstairs an open-air bar. There’s a big terrace to enjoy in the warm months. Situated in the middle of the lively Testaccio neighbourhood, with lots of fun restaurants and a plethora of activities in the summer. Free admission Wed & Thurs. Other nights L20,000.

Alpheus

Via del Commercio 271/b tel 06.541.3985. Bus #75 or Metro B Piramide. Fri only 10.30pm-4am.

Every Friday here at 10.30pm it’s the “Muccassassina”, a thoroughly gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender event sponsored by the Mario Mieli Cultural Association. It’s a great night, with three different discos pounding away, a garden open in the warm months, and special events, such as drag shows and amateur male strippers. It costs L18,000 to get in, which includes one drink.

Apeiron

Via dei Quattro Cantoni 5 tel 06.482.8820. Metro Termini. Most nights 10.30pm-2am, later on Fri and Sat.

A big-screen video bar upstairs, erotic videos and dark room downstairs. Located in the Termini area, near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. One-drink minimum for L6000.

Edoardo II

Vicolo Margana 14 tel 06.6994.2419. Bus #63 or #64. Tues-Sat 10pm-2am.

Right in the middle of the old Jewish Ghetto, just off Piazza Venezia, this medieval torture chamber theme bar, named after the infamously gay English king, is actually pretty tame. Quite a young crowd and conveniently cruisy if you’re having a wander through the centre of town. Membership is required, but it’s free.

Garbo

Vicolo di Santa Margherita 1/A tel 06.5832.0782. Bus #H or #75. Wed-Mon 10pm-2am.

A friendly Trastevere bar, with a relaxed atmosphere and a nice setting, just behind the main piazza. A nice mix of Italians and foreigners, presided over by Tom, the Irish proprietor. No admission charge. Drinks start at L5000.

Gender

Via Faleria 9 tel 06.7049.7638. Metro A Re di Roma. Tues-Sat 11pm-4am.

A bit of a step from the city centre, this multi-gender club specializes in theme nights, covering everything from erotic cartoons to drag lessons to sexy couple contests and more. L15,000 entrance.

L’Hangar

Via in Selci 29 tel 06.488.1397. Metro B Cavour or Metro A Vittorio. Tues-Sun 10.30pm-2am.

About halfway between Termini and the Roman Forum, just off Via Cavour, this is one of Rome’s oldest and least expensive gay spots, always crammed with young people. Monday night features gay videos, and Saturday night it’s almost impossible to get in the door it’s so jammed. There’s no charge to get in, you just take a ticket and pay when you leave for whatever you’ve had to drink.

Jam Session

Via del Cardello 13/a tel 06.6994.2419. Metro B Cavour. Wed only midnight-4am.

Wednesday night here is “gay party” night, with Seventies and Eighties disco music and loads of buff young Italians - a somewhat posey affair. The L10,000 entrance fee includes a drink.

Joli Coeur

Via Sirte 5 tel 06.8621.5827. Bus #310 or #63. Sat only 11pm-4am.

Pretty far from the centre, in the Villa Ada area, but this club features Rome’s only lesbian night every Saturday.

Piper

Via Tagliamento 9 tel 06.855.5398. Bus #63. Tues-Sun 11pm-4am, Sat & Sun also 4-8pm for youngsters.

Saturday nights are gay nights at this eclectic club

ARCI-Gay Caravaggio , Via Lariana 8, tel 06.855.5522. Rome branch of the nationwide Italian gay organization. Political gatherings every Wed 8.30-10.30pm. Social gatherings every Sun 5-8pm.

ARCI-Lesbica Roma , Via dei Monti di Pietralata 16, tel 06.418.0369; Web site: www.women.it/~arciles/roma. Again, the local branch of the national gay activist group. Social-political gatherings every Thurs 8.30-10.30pm.

Gay Information in English tel 06.541.3985, Mon evenings, 8.30am-10.30pm.

Gay Information in Italian tel 167.162.966, Mon-Fri 2-4pm.

Mario Mieli Cultural Association , Via Efeso 5, tel 06.541.3985; email: info@mariomieli.it. Web site: www.mariomieli.it. Rome’s gay activist organization, offering a broad range of social and health services. Welcome group Sat 3-6pm. Political group Mon 6.30pm. Volunteer group Wed 6.30pm.

The Year 2000 was a breakthrough year for gay and lesbian Rome . In direct competition with the pope’s officially homophobic policies, the Eternal City was declared the official site of “World Pride 2000″. The first week of July saw an inundation of the Rainbow Coalition from all over, come to celebrate their love among the ruins - which was interesting, considering that the city also hosted hundreds of thousands of Catholic pilgrims.

Intriguingly, Italy has never had anti-same-sex laws; it was presumably always enough simply to create an aura of massive disapproval around same-sex love. Consequently, gay and lesbian life in Rome is still conducted a bit on the sly, with gay venues hidden away and blacked-out from the street. There isn’t any danger - Rome is a remarkably safe city - just a pervasive feeling of original sin.

There’s a full range of same-sex offerings in Rome, although the city is certainly no Barcelona or Amsterdam The number of clubs, bars, saunas and such, is relatively limited, and you have to be on guard for the considerable presence of trade, usually recent arrivals from Eastern Europe, who cater largely to Vatican officials and other closet cases. However, you can certainly find a good time; there are also outdoor cruising/sex areas and some clubs have dark rooms, too, for those who prefer their encounters to be anonymous. There is no particularly gay part of town; clubs and bars are spread far and wide. Also, choices exclusively for women remain very few, although most places welcome both gay men and lesbians

Drinking is not something Romans do a lot of, at least not in public. Despite that, you’ll find plenty of bars in Rome, and, although, as with the rest of Italy, most are functional daytime haunts and not at all the kinds of places you’d want to spend an evening, due to the considerable presence of Anglo-Americans, there are plenty of more conducive bars and pubs - there’s now an Irish pub practically on every corner in central Rome. Many drinking spots are slick and expensive excuses for people to sit and pose, but most have the advantage of having late opening hours - sometimes until 4am in summer, and almost always until around 1am. Prices start from about L6000 for a medium (40cl) beer (ask for a media, pronounced “maydia”), but anywhere really fancy won’t charge any less than L10,000; sitting at a table will usually cost more, often as much as twice the price. The only slightly cheaper places you’ll find are the odd birreria.
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Opening hours have been given for all bars and cafés; note, however, that many places are closed during August.
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A recent phenomenon is the upsurge of wine bars ( enoteche or vinerie). The old ones have gained new cachet and newer ones, with wine lists the size of unabridged dictionaries, are weighing in too, often with gourmet menus to go with the superb wines they offer. There’s also been a recent proliferation of wine-tastings ( degustazioni), a chance to sample some interesting vintages, often at no cost. Those that still concentrate on the fruit of the vine, however, are many in number and we’ve listed the best here.

Bear in mind also that there is sometimes considerable crossover between Rome’s bars, restaurants and clubs. For the most part, the places listed in this chapter are drinking spots, but you can eat, sometimes quite substantially, at many of them, and several could be classed just as easily as nightclubs, with loud music and occasionally even an entrance charge.

Although we’ve, again, divided these listings into the usual neighbourhoods , the truth is that there are plenty of drinking establishments all over Rome. However, the areas around Campo de’ Fiori and the Pantheon, plus, of course, Trastevere and Testaccio, are the densest and most happening.